Method and System for Interactive Creation of Garments

ABSTRACT

A method for interactively designing garments includes steps in which: a request for the creation of a garment is received from a user; general body measurements are inputted; said measurements are checked by comparing the inputted values against a database of reference body measurements; a three-dimensional mannequin is rendered on the basis of the body measurements; the body measurements are reexamined on the basis of the model of the three-dimensional mannequin; individual characteristics of the body are analyzed on the basis of the model of the three-dimensional mannequin; a pattern algorithm is created for the garment, containing a step-by-step rendering of the garment, said algorithm being executed automatically and resulting in a graphical rendering of the garment, wherein the coordinates of fiducial points on the garment are determined according to the body measurements; a pattern of the garment is rendered on the basis of said fiducial point coordinates; markings, incisions, fiducial lines and written comments are applied; the fiducial points and the pattern of the garment are reexamined for the intersection of elements of the garment and to check that the lengths of matching seams or details of the garment coincide; a check of the fit of the garment is performed on the mannequin; the rendering of the pattern is checked across a broad range of sizes; and the pattern is exported to a machine-readable format for one or more sizes. The result is a more accurate match between the garment designed and the body shape of a user of the system.

TECHNICAL FIELD

The claimed invention relates to interactive design systems, in particular an apparel design system used to create patterns for tailoring garments, and a method for exchanging the created patterns between the users of the said system.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PRIOR ART

The prior art contains multiple various garment design systems. Application US2014277663 (GUPTA NEIL ROHIN [US]; EREMENKO PAUL [US], 2014 Sep. 18) discloses a system for automated tailoring of apparel and preparation of patterns using a software application. The system allows designing and fitting garments on the basis of user virtual model created using laser scanning technology. The application contains pattern options that can be modified in any way depending on the user requirements. The system contains a database of fabrics, threads, labels, etc. The system also determines the optimum amount of fabric to be used to manufacture a garment using patterns. The system also offers an option of selling patterns or finished garment designs.

Application US20080249652 (BURR ELIZABETH [US], 2008 Oct. 9) discloses a system and method for creating garments that contains a CAD application combined with the automated tailoring means. Digital patterns are created manually using measurements taken, or sizes entered, by the user, or automatically using fabricated parts.

Application US20140163718 (Myung Noe Koo, 2014 Jun. 12) discloses a method for manufacturing apparel using a Web system that selects garments in different countries. The system allows output of tailoring patterns depending on the selected apparel design and customization of sizes and designs.

Also known are various systems designed for exchanging the created patterns, in particular selling projects between users and organizing a client-server tailoring system. Application US20030050864 (Koninklijke Philips NV, 2003 Mar. 13) discloses a system for online purchasing of apparel on the Internet, including a module for visualizing apparel on a virtual mannequin. The system implements software that allows selection of apparel by choosing the desired design, specifying the required sizes and purchasing the appropriate item.

Patent EA010039 ([RU] NONPROFIT ORGANIZATION GENKEY INVESTMENT PROJECTS SUPPORT FOUNDATION, 2008 Jun. 30) discloses a method for trading in goods and/or providing services using a telecommunications network, where a customer uses remote or local access to a seller's information resources to preselect an article and/or service; then the customer transmits to the seller information including the customer's parameters and/or parameters of the subject in relation to which the customer has preselected the article and/or service; then the seller, subject to the parameters of the article and/or service preselected by the customer and information received from the customer, constructs a digital model describing the expected appearance and/or other properties of the selected article and/or the results of the service to be implemented, as applied to the information received from the customer; the resulting digital model is transmitted via the telecommunications network to the customer; the customer, subject to the acquired digital model, decides whether to purchase the selected article and/or acquire the selected service and informs the seller thereof; the seller sends to the customer the selected article and/or implements the selected service.

Application US20100030578 (DRESSBOT Inc., Apr. 2, 2010) discloses a system for selling/purchasing garments depending on the model created by the user, in particular, by selecting models from the database with specification of the required sizes depending on the standards, or creating a photorealistic model using a photo/video camera. The system is not designed for direct apparel modeling, but allows viewing and changing the patterns from which the garment is made up. The system also includes a rating module that gives rates depending on the user preferences, in particular, when the size of the item is matched.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The technical problem today is to create an easy-to-use garment design system for the end user that will, in addition to creation of high accuracy patterns, allow virtual fitting of a garment using a 3D mannequin model created with a minimum allowable set of the required measurements.

The technical result is a better fit of the designed garment to the system user's body shape achieved by comparing the measurements entered by the user with the anthropometric database and additional recalculation of the same, and an extended functionality achieved by providing an interactive instruction for tailoring of the garment using an integrated software module—lexical interpreter.

The subject of the first preferred embodiment of the invention is a method for interactive design of garments comprising the following steps:

-   -   receiving a user request to create a garment;     -   entering common body measurements, for which the garment is         created;     -   validating the entered common measurements by comparing the         entered values with the database of reference measurements;     -   creating a 3D mannequin on the basis of the measurements;     -   recalculating the measurements on the basis of the 3D mannequin         model;     -   evaluating the specific features of the body shape on the basis         of the 3D mannequin model;     -   creating a garment cutout algorithm containing step-by-step         construction of the said garment with automatic execution of the         same     -   involving graphical construction of the garment with         determination of the position of the garment reference points         depending on the measurements;     -   creating the garment pattern on the basis of the said position         of the reference points;     -   making marks, notches, reference lines and text comments at the         patterns;     -   recalculating reference points and garment patterns to find         intersections of the garment elements and align the lengths of         the mating seams and pieces of the garment;     -   checking the fit of the garment to the said mannequin;     -   checking pattern construction for a wide range of height         references;     -   exporting the patterns to a machine-readable format for one or         more sizes.

In another embodiment, reference measurements are selected from a database containing a set of measurements distributed by age-gender groups.

In another embodiment, an additional step is performed to check the entered common measurements by comparing the same with a specific age-gender group.

In another embodiment, an additional 3D mannequin is constructed on the basis of a human photo image.

In another embodiment, main body measurements are calculated on the basis of the photo image.

In another embodiment, each algorithm step is processed by a lexical interpreter that converts algorithm steps into text comments.

In another embodiment, a sequence of video frames is additionally generated, where each of the frames corresponds to the said algorithm step.

In another embodiment, a list of pieces is generated, which pieces are a part of the said garment.

In another embodiment, the list is generated following an automatic analysis of the garment cutout algorithm.

In another embodiment, the quantity of the materials required to manufacture a garment and/or garment piece is calculated.

In another embodiment, patterns are marked with additional information.

In another embodiment, when patterns are exported, they are cut to size.

The subject of the second preferred embodiment is a system for interactive design of garments including:

at least one processor and at least one memory unit that stores processor-executable instructions, execution of which induces at least one processor to perform the following method steps:

-   -   receiving and processing a user request to create a garment;     -   entering common body measurements, for which the garment is         created;     -   validating the entered common measurements by comparing the         entered values with the database of reference measurements;     -   creating a 3D mannequin on the basis of the measurements;     -   recalculating the measurements on the basis of the 3D mannequin         model;     -   evaluating the specific features of the body shape on the basis         of the 3D mannequin model;     -   creating a garment cutout algorithm containing step-by-step         construction of the said garment with automatic execution of the         same     -   involving graphical construction of the garment with         determination of the position of the garment reference points         depending on the measurements;     -   creating the garment pattern on the basis of the said position         of the reference points;     -   making marks, notches, reference lines and text comments at the         patterns;     -   recalculating reference points and garment patterns to find         intersections of the garment elements and align the lengths of         the mating seams and pieces of the garment;     -   checking the fit of the garment to the said mannequin;     -   checking pattern construction for a wide range of height         references;     -   exporting the patterns to a machine-readable format for one or         more sizes.

Another embodiment contains an additional module for recalculating cutout sizes that recalculates pattern sizes.

Another embodiment contains an additional trading platform module.

Another embodiment contains an additional module for generating interactive garment tailoring instructions on the basis of a cutout algorithm.

In another embodiment, the tailoring instruction is generated using a lexical interpreter converting algorithm steps into text comments.

Another embodiment contains an additional module for video recording of algorithm execution.

Another embodiment contains a module for calculating the quantity of the materials required to manufacture a garment and/or garment piece.

In another embodiment, the trading platform module contains a data store for the created patterns and generated interactive instructions.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

FIG. 1 provides an overview of the steps of the claimed method to be performed.

FIG. 2 shows a sample measurements selection interface window.

FIG. 3 shows the step of validation of the entered measurements.

FIGS. 4 and 5 show sample construction of a 3D mannequin on the basis of a photo image.

FIGS. 6 and 7 show sample recalculation of measurements using a 3D mannequin.

FIG. 8 shows a sample finished 3D mannequin.

FIG. 9 shows sample processing of a cutout algorithm.

FIGS. 10 and 11 show a sample list of parts for cutting out a garment.

FIG. 12 shows sample generation of a garment assemblage sequence.

FIGS. 13 and 14 show embodiments of the claimed system.

FIG. 15 shows a diagram of the Web resource elements.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE EMBODIMENTS

FIG. 1 provides an overview of implementing the method for design of garments 100.

In step 101, the automated garment design system receives a client request to create a garment. The initial request can be made as registration of the user in the system using the Web browser of the computer.

In step 102, the user enters the body measurements, for which the garment will be manufactured. FIG. 2 shows sample selection of primary measurements. Measurements can be entered by their selection from standard sizing chart 201 or input of individual body measurements 202.

The system user can enter the required number of measurements for subsequent apparel design, in particular, height, chest, underbust, waist, hips, thigh and additional measurements.

In step 103 (FIG. 3), common measurements entered by the user in step 102 are validated.

After the user sends measurements for processing, a request to the database of measurements 150 is made. Database 150 contains measurements for 7 body shape groups for a wide range of heights. They are based on actual measurements, statistically approximated, complemented and extended by the system by means of mathematical calculations and reproduction of measurements from the neighboring size groups (girls/women and boys/men) taking into account age-related changes in posture and soft tissues.

A variety of the existing typical body shapes corresponding to the principal measurements is selected, where those that correspond to the variety of measurements are further selected using approximation method, if they fall between several typical body shapes.

The empirical corrections made are considered, and the corresponding measurement is adjusted in terms of percentage for each correction. Then new interdependent measurements (side view in case of a change in front views, etc.) are recalculated. Circumferences are included in recalculation of views. For example, when the user enters an arm length of 170 cm, the system will generate the following error message: Arm length=170 (specified by the user) System response: user-specified measurement exceeds the statistical one by 2.27 times, please update. If a measurement falls between typical body shapes, a variety of measurements based on supporting bones and verticals is found by recalculation of dependences in similar height references. Circumferences are updated using mathematical methods (linear, curvilinear and multiple correlation, empirical and theoretical regression according to Sizing Typology of the Population with Fundamentals of Anatomy and R 17 Morphology/T. N. Dunaevskaya, E. B. Koblyakova, G. S. Ivleva, R. V. Ievleva) and a 3D mannequin (updating polyline length according to principal front and side views and soft tissue circumferences).

In step 104, a three-dimensional (3D) mannequin is constructed on the basis of measurements entered by the user and additional verification thereof.

An individual 3D mannequin is created using a series of calculations of the user's measurements on the basis of the database of measurements 150. The system classifies six size groups, five of which are anthropological:

1) Women 2) Men

3) Infants (height to 86 cm) 4) Girls (height from 86 to 188 cm) 5) Boys (height from 86 to 188 cm) 6) Dolls (an open size group for dolls that do not meet the standard anthropometric rules. For this group, only a type of doll (Barbie) can be selected and a mannequin for the same can be constructed. No resizing or empirical corrections can be made for this size group). To calculate measurements, principal measurements that a human can make with sufficient accuracy at home must be entered:

1. Height

2. Chest circumference 3. Underbust circumference (only for women's size group) 4. Waist circumference 5. Hip circumference not including abdomen prominence Additional measurements can be entered, in particular: 6. Hip circumference including abdomen prominence 7. Neck circumference 8. Shoulder circumference 9. Head circumference

In contrast to the known methods of three-dimensional user's body shape scanning with special equipment (three-dimensional laser scanners), photographing of the body shape using a referential object and photographing of the body shape against an orthogonal grid, the claimed method offers an update of measurements subject to the human height and the position of skeletal supporting points that can be updated by the user with a photo (FIGS. 4-5).

Measurements can be updated using one photo (front), two photos (front and back) and three photos (front, side, back). The only requirement to a photo is to place the camera at such a distance from the floor and from the object so that perspective distortion is minimum. A distance of two heights and an elevation of half of the height are recommended. Depending on the number of photos, measurements are updated by comparing different sets of measurements, however, the sufficient accuracy in all cases is allowed by an extensive database of typical body shapes.

After construction of a 3D mannequin and update of measurements, the system allows their storage in user account further use (design and fitting).

The file can be also exported for printing the 3D mannequin out in real size.

The mannequin is constructed in three stages:

1) development of a rough design, where the form of the mannequin is roughly estimated on body sketches in two views—cross-vertical and cross-longitudinal ones, projection measurements and diameters of the mannequins are linked, and mannequin contours are developed; 2) drafting of mannequin section drawings, approximation of section contours using regular curves and setting of the curves using graphical and calculation methods. At the detailed design stage, mannequin sections are developed on the basis of an averaged typical body shape contours with account for posture; 3) reconstruction of the surface as a whole.

In step 105, measurements are updated on the basis of the constructed 3D mannequin.

Initially, horizontal planes of heights are determined vertically on the basis of the measurements (FIG. 6). Then, vertical planes are determined that divide horizontal planes in accordance with the front body shape views and lay off halves of a measurement in both directions (verticals xr and xl) from the vertical axis using transverse diameters. When a mannequin is constructed and measurements are recalculated on its basis, the system recognizes the measurements that can change depending on the position of soft tissues, e.g. height of the nipple point or height of the waist line (FIG. 7). Other points are skeletal and set as constants for the mannequin. Then, the position of the mannequin reference points are updated according to anteroposterior diameters—0f vertical at the front and Ob vertical at the back.

In step 106, specific features of the body shape, for which the garment is created, are analyzed. In particular, posture type, swayback, shoulder slope, location of fat tissues, degree of development of support girdle muscles and other parameters are determined.

These individual parameters are taken into account using the created 3D mannequin.

In step 107, the garment cutout algorithm is constructed on the basis of measurements entered in step 102. This step is performed with the participation of the user and hardware-software platform implementing basic functions of the claimed method.

To describe and construct garment model patterns, the system uses a simple specialized language for recording a pattern description and construction technique (cutout programming language) that allows recording geometries using a set of operators, qualifiers (object properties), controls (conditional operators and cyclic constructions).

Unlike the existing CAD systems, visual graphic object tools are absent or limited to acquisition of a name or object properties. For example, double-clicking an object will insert the object name into the code window. Clicking the ‘line’ button will add a prompt line in the code window line(point,point); By analogy with programming languages, the rules for recording garment model construction descriptions will be called the syntax and semantics of the language, some primitive actions—operators, and text description of the algorithm—program analogue.

Several different cutout algorithm interpreters allow:

-   -   Instant display of a pattern;     -   Playback of the process of displaying a cutout in the form of an         animated film in full or up to the current cursor position in         the code window—to search errors in the process of construction         (dart closing error, cut move at a wrong angle);     -   Automatic creation of a master class in video format or an         e-book on the tailoring technique with comments following the         animation and explanations of the actions, values, conditions         and cyclic structures in the form of guidelines used in         tailoring handbooks;     -   Automatic creation of a technical drawing of the future garment         in monochrome 2D format with display of basic contours, seams         and holes to be used in print for publication of the cutout. The         technical drawing can be adjusted using system tools, if the         designer wants to give to the drawing any designer's         characteristics;     -   Automatic preparation of the sequence of actions to assemble the         garment in the form of a tailoring instruction, including the         recommended consumption of fabrics, number of pieces and         specific cutting out features, sequence of assemblage,         illustration of complicated technical steps (plaiting,         flouncing), illustration by matching scaled down cutout pieces;     -   Creation of a set of patterns in a preset format with a         breakdown into sheets to be exported and printed;     -   Creation of a 3D preview of the technical drawing on a mannequin         or without displaying the mannequin (only the garment).

For any pattern construction technique, the first action to be taken by the designer is to set a point in a system of coordinates. Then lines, segments, arcs are plotted and straight and curved lines are drawn under present conditions. Any technique implies a set of basic elements: a system of coordinates, units of measurement, an available set of tools and operations, source data (measurements, basis of design, sketch).

The core of the system is calculation of coordinates of the pattern reference points using arithmetic formulas, which can use measurement values from the database (step 1071). The above formulas can also use: numbers determined by constants; variables calculated according to the formulas; lengths, distances and angles determined between various elements. When a pattern construction technique is recorded, the following can be used as geometric objects:

-   -   points can be determined by coordinates; laid off from another         for a length at an angle;     -   determined as intersection of curves, segments, polylines;         determined by laying off a length along a segment, arc, curve,         polyline;     -   segments determined by two points;     -   arcs;     -   curves determined by a start point, an end point, a tangent         angle at the first point, a tangent angle at the second point         and a convexity ratio;     -   polylines that can combine segments, arcs, curves in series.

All geometric objects (values, points, segments, lines) in the system have an identifier (name) that identifies the object in a unique manner. An identifier (name) is a sequence of letters, digits and a _(—) symbol. Apart from letters of the English alphabet, Cyrillic and other letters in UTF-8 encoding format can be used. In addition, uppercase and lowercase letters can be used, between which no distinction is made.

When a coordinate calculation formula is recorded, the program can use measurement values taken from the database created using the system. Measurement values can be used in formulas as variables and are designated in accordance with sequence numbers (e.g. sz23, sz1, sz56, sz114) or user-assigned designations (e.g. circ1, circ2, waist).

FIG. 9 shows sample construction of a skirt frame using the operators described above: length=sz9-sz7; // length of the skirt will be set at the knee level for any height ea19=sz19*0.05; // breathing allowance along the hip line will 5 percent of the hip circumference width=sz19*0.5+ea19; // width of a half of the garment is a half of the hip circumference+allowance P1=point(0,0); // the first point is set P2=apply (P1,width,0); // width of a half of the garment is laid off to the right of the point P1, and the point P2 is set P3=apply(P1,length,90); // length of the garment is laid off down from the point P1, and the point P3 is set P4=apply(P2,length,90); // length of the garment is laid off down from the point P2, and the point P3 is set centerback=line(P1,P3); centerfront=line(P2,P4); hem=line(P3,P4);

To set the coordinates of geometric objects, the system uses the Cartesian coordinate system, where point (0,0) is the origin of the coordinates, X-axis is a horizontal axis going from left to right (first coordinate), Y-axis is a vertical axis going from top to bottom (second coordinate). This direction of the axes has been selected, as construction is usually carried out from top to bottom, and the selected direction of the Y-axis provides operation with positive coordinate increments. The unit of measurement along the axes is 1 centimeter. Positive reference direction is traditional—from the X-axis to the Y-axis—and a change in the direction of the Y-axis leads to a positive clockwise direction of angular variations.

The cutout programming language used in the system allows modeling with operators, which sequentially determine variables or perform certain actions (e.g. print). All operators are executed sequentially, unless there is an explicit instruction to change the sequence of their execution. When the program is running, coordinates and parameters of variables are determined sequentially. Direct determination of variables is performed using the following keywords: point, line, circle, arc, curve, path (i.e. point, line, arc, degree 2 curve, degree 3 curve, polyline).

Apart from direct determination of variables, they can be constructed using built-in functions (determination of points through intersection, move or rotation of objects). A set of possible actions is available for each type of variables: intersection, parallel move, central and axial symmetry, rotation, printout. Almost any of these manipulations can be also implemented through coordinate calculation formulas, but the use of built-in functions allows simplification of record.

The system consists of sequential determination of new geometric objects—variables with their coordinates being calculated using formulas or determined using manipulations. When the program is running, the interpreter scans operators and performs actions determined by the same.

Operations of the proposed language generally match operations performed when drawings are constructed manually. This match and the capability of multiple fast ‘reconstruction’ of a drawing make the system user friendly, while the formalism of construction and the ability to use the database with stored values make it possible to use the system as a really powerful workstation.

Angular Construction

The three-point angle qualifier allows accurate rotation and copying of objects (closing of a shoulder dart and creation of a dart in the armhole, copying of objects to create an oblique floating piece, etc.). When patterns are constructed manually, the designer often uses linear values. Even when working with darts, dart opening in centimeters is taken rather than dart angle. However, move of darts with indication of centimeters leads to distortion of convexity parameters at a given point. For example, in case of transfer of a dart opening with a 7-cm side seam from the shoulder to the nipple point for the same 7 cm, we will get a more convex surface, since the side seam is closer to the nipple point. If the angle move system operator is used, the convexity parameters will be retained in full.

Comments to the steps of an algorithm are written in lines or parts of the lines beginning with //; when a comment consists of several lines, it should be limited to a set of characters /* and */.

A comment can contain any text explaining the actions taken and giving references to the literature, reminders, author's details and promotional information. When the interpreter is run to generate a master class in video format or an instruction on the given tailoring technique in the e-book format, comments will be included in the video and the text of the e-book automatically by analyzing the lines of the algorithm.

The above-described basic elements of the language allow almost any geometric manipulations by calculating coordinates, however, in some cases such manipulation formulas will look too cumbersome and unclear. Built-in functions are implemented to improve and enhance clear records of certain manipulations and to simplify writing of programs in the system language. Built-in functions allow performance of the most frequent manipulations with objects (fragments of contours of a piece).

Some functions are as follows:

Axial Symmetry or Symmetry in Reference to a Segment

Symmetry is convenient to use in modeling of a collar, when it is constructed in an open form and then displayed in reference to the fold line. Modeling often requires a complete symmetrical pattern. This function allows getting, for example, a detailed drawing of a front displaying its contour in reference to the center of the same.

Move

This function is useful in creation of a piece on the basis of the existing objects, when it is desirable to visualize the piece in a separate area of the screen to avoid high density of check points. move((shoulder, armhole), o_move, (shoulder_c,armhole_c)); In this case, shoulder and armhole variables (e.g. segment and curve) will be moved in the direction of the vector determined by the o_move segment, and their copies will be named shoulder_c and armhole_c respectively. Rotation about a Point at a Preset Angle Rotation can be used to construct and move darts, construct yokes, complex draperies, folds, etc.

Compression

When patterns are constructed for materials (step 1072) with high stretch (knitted fabrics, especially with the use of LYCRA), some pattern areas need to be compressed to take into account its subsequent stretching. In some cases, a pattern needs on the contrary to be stretched to take into account its subsequent compression caused by the fabric shrinkage or the use of any handling technology. For such pattern modification, the system has a function of compression in two directions. The compression function requires a center of compression, an angle of the basic direction of compression, compression ratios along the basic direction and transverse direction.

Intersection

Almost entire construction of patterns is based on intersection. This includes intersection of straight lines, arcs and segments in any combination. Intersection is often used in modeling: drawing of fancy lines and determination of their position in pattern contours, move of darts, etc. To implement such actions, the language has a function of intersection of directions, arcs, polylines, curves and segments.

Dart

The dart operator is designed to render darts and shape dart ends depending on the handling method.

Fold

The fold operator is designed to create the depth of a fold from a point at a preset angle to a preset depth of the fold.

Trim

This operator is designed to shape pattern contours with figured lines and apply these lines to a pattern. For example, a yoke bottom needs be decorated with festoons, or a decorative braid stitching line is needed.

Spread

This operator is designed for tapered spread of pieces in creation of flounces, draperies, collar and cuff pieces, etc.

The system implementing method 100 allows generation of construction animation, which can be used to check the sequence of creation of the rotation and move points being a visual adjustment tool. Another possible use of the animation interpreter is cycle execution.

When the cyclic construction animation option is selected, the entire step-by-step cycle can be traced, initial value of the selected parameter can be determined and optimum increment can be found to reduce the number of iterations. For example, when a raglan is constructed, the angle of slope of the back and front ends of the sleeve is selected in the cycle. Adjustment of cycle allows tracing how the angle of slope changes and which angle increment needs to be set to find this angle with the preset accuracy and thereby reduce the number of iterations.

After the cutout algorithm is created, it becomes the basis for an automated garment tailoring calculation process, where:

-   -   Cutout areas marked to be strengthened with an interfacing         fabric are selected.     -   Pieces created by fold, tuck, shrinkage methods are selected.     -   The cutout algorithm is analyzed to determine graphic objects         created using the symmetry, move, laying off equal lengths,         separation of polygons in two patterns operators. At this stage         the cutout program code is analyzed to select pairs (triples,         etc.) of objects that can have equal characteristics.     -   The resulting pairs of areas in 2D pattern polygons are further         analyzed for coincidence of reference points and seam lengths.         These can be lines, curves, polylines and areas of similar         graphic objects between labels.     -   The sequence of sewing up, including connection of multiple         individual front patterns up to stitching to the back panel,         closing of darts up to stitching to the waistband and other         operations are determined. The sequence selection principle is         maximum simplification of tailoring operations, seaming in such         a way so that pieces do not have to be connected at an awkward         angle and two pieces do not have to be connected to the third         one in case of a common seam (first two pieces will be combined,         then the seam is made with the third one); straightening of         seams, where possible; control over the possibility to turn over         a piece after lining is sewn, etc.     -   The system user is provided with the ability to change the         sequence of operations in case when there are variations of         pre-stitching of pieces before critical operations (e.g. a yoke         dart can be first closed and then stitched to the lower panel,         or the yoke and the lower panel can be first stitched together,         and then the yoke dart can be closed). The system controls the         sequence of operations and returns an error if the user, for         example, wants to stitch the waistband before closing darts on         the skirt.     -   The sequence of actions in the form of a tailoring algorithm is         stored in a file, or a record is made in the database, e.g.:         interfacing(stitching_front, stitching_back); fold(yoke);         sew together(a_p3_p4(front),a_p3_p4(back);         tuck(1_p1_p4(front);

Button placket handling, zipper sewing, vent handling and some lining stitching steps are automatically added. The sequence of actions is recorded automatically using the functionality of the system and stored in the background, when the user is editing, in such cases as network failure, loss of connection, etc.

Pursuant to the tailoring algorithm, for 2D printing purposes, the interpreter additionally marks cutout patterns with the sequence of operations. For example, along the side seams of the front on the left and the back on the right an identical text such as “seam 21” is added along the edges to be seamed, and labels such as (s21>>) and (<<s21) are applied in the beginning and at the end of the seam. This increases the prominence of the resulting patterns and facilitates the process of stitching of pieces. Pursuant to the cutout algorithm and tailoring algorithm, the lexical interpreter is used for automatic generation of an instruction in a user-selected language containing figures. The language can be changed at a later time, and the system will make automatic translation. When a garment tailoring instruction is generated, figures showing assemblage of pieces can be optionally included or excluded. Components of the instruction can include:

-   -   3D image of the finished garment     -   Technical drawing of the garment in accordance with the         tailoring industry standards     -   Recommended fabric (stretch and shrinkage characteristics)     -   List of pieces     -   Recommended quantity of fabric for a specific size     -   Sequence of assemblage.

Specifications of the recommended fabric and additional materials are determined following an algorithm analysis performed by the system, including:

-   -   availability of the shrinkage operator with negative ratios;     -   type of the size/age group (children's apparel);     -   number and percentage estimate of outsizes, numerical         characteristics and presence of plackets in anthropometric areas         (width of the neckline and collar, presence of a zipper, button         or placket in this area, total length of the skirt bottom,         presence of plackets or vents, etc.).         The obtained fabric stretch characteristics are used for         comparison with the database of fabric types and selection of         the relevant items. An indication of the fiber type can be given         (e.g. in case of apparel for nursery and primary school age         children, a recommendation to use natural fabrics is added).         The cutout algorithm is analyzed by the system for having         buttons, zippers, hooks, reinforcement with underwires, etc.         This information is also included in the text of the         instruction. Where no hemming method is indicated, the algorithm         calculates the length of the bias tape. The length of zippers         and similar elements is automatically calculated and indicated.         As a result, the instruction contains text in any of the         selected system languages, for example, Recommended Fabric:         Knitted fabrics, jersey, dress fabrics with elastane,         stretch-gabardine and others, with a stretch of at least 5%,         made of synthetic, natural or mixed fibers.         You will also need:         An interfacing fabric, lining fabric, zipper (min. 25.6 cm), 1         button.

Optional:

Bias tape with a width of 1.5 cm and a length of 37.5 cm for processing of the seam21 area between labels (s21>>) and (<<s21) at the Front piece Metric units depend on the cutout customer's settings, i.e. if inches are indicated as a preference in the order for the set, the above example will have a zipper with a length of 10.1 inches, etc.

The list of pieces is included following the cutout algorithm analysis and indicates the number of the pieces, the necessity to cut them out in inversed manner and the fabric types. Next to the list of pieces, there is a reduced image of marking on standard-width fabric with the pieces in the layout being marked with letters, and the letters being also provided in brackets next to the name of the piece in the list. FIGS. 10-11 show sample display of the list of pieces based on the generated cutout algorithm.

The recommended quantity of fabric is generated automatically and executed by maximum compaction of curvilinear polygons in several iterations. Specific lengths are calculated, e.g. basic fabric being 45 inches wide and 2 yards long, etc. Metric units depend on the cutout customer choice and can be changed at any time.

A garment assemblage sequence is generated using lexical interpretation of the tailoring algorithm and the database of these tailoring terms in several languages. All actions are accompanied by figures that can be optionally disabled.

FIG. 12 shows sample generation of a garment assemblage sequence. Each line of the tailoring algorithm is analyzed by the lexical interpreter. in addition the cutout algorithm can be addressed, if necessary, to update seam allowances, etc. The designer can complement instructions, but not edit the sequence and bold text, as this information is needed to display the figures and calculated according to the algorithm.

In step 108, reference points and garment patterns are calculated to find intersections of the garment elements and align the lengths of the mating seams and pieces of the garment.

This step is implemented using special formulas, where apart from constants and variable measurements, parameters of other geometric objects can be used, including point positions, segment angles, curve tangent angles, lengths of segments, curves, arcs and polylines. This allows:

-   -   Exact matching of angles at different garment sections (e.g.         shirt armhole at low point is formed by two curves, which are         approached by the side seam of the garment. When the angle         matching function is used, the section formed by two armhole         curves after stitching of the side seam will be smooth, and the         side seam will be perpendicular to the same);     -   Exact matching of the length of curvilinear seams, flounces and         sleeve top in reference to the preset armhole section;     -   Automatic putting of labels at the desired length from the         origin of divergent curved cuts;     -   Automatic putting of check points at patterns (e.g. use of         lengths of the top garment curves to mark the points at the         straight waistband);     -   Verification of the robustness of the garment in different         height sizes.         The system also allows creation of construction animation using         the animation interpreter, which allows checking the sequence of         creation of the rotation and move points being a visual         adjustment tool. Another possible use of the animation         interpreter is cycle execution.         When the cyclic construction animation option is selected, the         entire step-by-step cycle can be traced, initial value of the         selected parameter can be determined and optimum increment can         be found to reduce the number of iterations. For example, when a         raglan is constructed, the angle of slope of the back and front         ends of the sleeve is selected in the cycle. Adjustment of cycle         allows tracing how the angle of slope changes and which angle         increment needs to be set to find this angle with the preset         accuracy and thereby reduce the number of iterations.

In step 109, fit of the garment on the created 3D mannequin is checked. In general, the garment is assembled on the basis of the described seams and recorded in a file as a 3D surface with holes. The 3D surface of the garment considering the stretch of the fabric and gravity is put on the mannequin taking into account the following support girdles: 1) shoulders 2) spinous and flank bones. Checks whether there are intersections of the garment surface with the mannequin surface (the garment is too tight, there is an internal circumferential intersection, the circumference of the garment holes is insufficient for free passage of the neck, arms, legs and waist), whether the hole is sufficiently small so that the garment does not slip from the support girdle under the action of gravity (shoulder or pelvic girdle depending on the garment) and whether or not a size falls out of the range of height sizes are performed.

In step 110, construction of patterns is checked for a wide range of height sizes. This check is carried out using the gradation procedure. Gradation can be checked using a pattern grid, where patterns are reproduced not by enlargement of a piece as a whole, but by recalculation of the algorithm for new measurements from the database. This allows determination whether or not a size falls out of the total range of height sizes, whether there are any construction errors, and whether the configuration complies with the designed garment in all sizes. An analysis of the possibility to construct a garment for a specific standard height size adopted in the industry or defined by the user is conducted; for example, a garment can be made for sizes from 34 to 48, but it cannot be made for size 50 due to the specific features of the algorithm.

In construction of a pattern grid, the system displays numerical values of the graded size variables. The entire text can be printed; then an analysis of how different values change at gradation can be performed and the appropriate amendments made to the algorithm, if necessary.

In step 111, patterns are exported to a user-selected machine-readable format. A set of patterns can also be exported in a preset format with a breakdown into sheets to be exported and printed;

The user can transmit the resulting curves via a data network to another user or send the same to a remote server into the trading platform module.

The system implementing method 100 also allows creation of a master class in tailoring technique used to construct the garment. To designer proceeds to creation of the master class after the cutout algorithm has been generated. To start recording, the designer activates the master class function in cutout editor window.

First, the master class name frame is created using one of the available templates, which the designer can select in his/her user account by specifying the background image, the fields, the preferred font, the size and the color of headers and other styles, color of the comment field and author's details. Then, the cutout algorithm is analyzed and measurements used in the construction process are determined (a list of szXX constants is generated in the algorithm text). ‘Required measurements’ splash screen is generated. Mini-videos are recorded sequentially that are based on the database and describe the process of taking the measurements. The videos contain a schematic image of the body shape of the respective size group, name of the measurement, full description of the measurement, additional tools needed to take measurements, their location at the body shape, animation of the measurement at the body shape.

The cutout generation algorithm lines are sequentially analyzed. In calculation of eaXX outsizes and additional variables between the algorithm operators or inside the algorithm functions, explanation of the calculations is displayed in the animation frame or separate frames if the length of the resulting text exceeds 500 characters.

The operators used in the process of construction are described in terms familiar to the designer having experience in construction on paper. The lexical interpreter generates text according to the rules described in the system and displays the same under the algorithm development animation window in the comment field. The designer's comments in the text of the algorithm are displayed immediately before the animation of a particular operator. The duration of a specific construction animation is calculated depending on the length of the text in characters. Sample algorithm: p1=point(2,2); ea18=1; p2=apply(p1,sz26*0.5,90); // The side seam lies in the center between the back waist point and the front waist point. p3=apply(p1,sz18*0.25+ea18,5); waistband_back=curve(p1,p3,0,10,1); central_seam_back=line(p1,p2); ea20=2; p4=apply(p2,sz20*0.5+ea20,0); garment_bottom=line(p4,p2); p5=apply(p4,sz25*0.3,90); side_seam=line(p4,p5); zipper=curve(p3,p5,50,90,1); marker=(p5,4,180,1,2); sa0=1 cm, sah=2 cm, back=pattern(name=“Back panel”, sym=0, fold=(side_seam_back), contour=(waistband_back,zipper, side_seam,garment_bottom, central back seam), seam=sa0, seam_special=(garment_bottom=sah),grain=(side_seam_back)); The above tailoring master class can also be made in the form of an e-book, which can also contain the respective figures and animation. The format of the book can be PDF, EPUB, MOBI, FB2, DOC, etc.

FIG. 13 contains a general view of the system 300 implementing actions to design garments.

The said system 300 consists of a central server 310 that processes data, data storage 320, Web resource 330, and user devices 301-304. The claimed method for design of garments 100 is implemented on the server 310 and provides the basic functionality through the Web resource 330. The above-disclosed method 100 using the system 300 can be implemented as a cloud platform with online access to functionality via a data transfer medium such as the Internet. Particular embodiments of the method 100 can be also be implemented in a local network system (LAN) via a dedicated device, which will perform the main computing function.

The server device 310 is generally a standard computer including one or more processors, I/O devices and interfaces, and memory units (RAM, ROM, HDD, SSD, etc.).

The steps of the method 100, as disclosed herein above, can be recorded in machine-readable computer memory and executed by one or more processors, where the following functions will be implemented:

-   -   receiving and processing a user request to create a garment;     -   entering common body measurements, for which the garment is         created;     -   validating the entered common measurements by comparing the         entered values with the database of reference measurements;     -   creating a 3D mannequin on the basis of the measurements;     -   recalculating the measurements on the basis of the 3D mannequin         model;     -   evaluating the specific features of the body shape on the basis         of the 3D mannequin model;     -   creating a garment cutout algorithm containing step-by-step         construction of the said garment with automatic execution of the         same     -   involving graphical construction of the garment with         determination of the position of the garment reference points         depending on the measurements;     -   creating the garment pattern on the basis of the said position         of the reference points;     -   making marks, notches, reference lines and text comments at the         patterns;     -   recalculating reference points and garment patterns to find         intersections of the garment elements and align the lengths of         the mating seams and pieces of the garment;     -   checking the fit of the garment to the said mannequin;     -   checking pattern construction for a wide range of height         references;     -   exporting the patterns to a machine-readable format for one or         more sizes.

Working in the system 300 implies registration of users on the Web resource 330, where an area is created for each user in the data store 320 for storage of information. According to FIG. 14, the Web resource 330 can also exchange data with the social networking service 340. Users 301-304 can exchange the created patterns, tailoring instructions or master classes using the social networking service 340.

The system 300 also implements a platform to sell patterns, instructions and master classes created by users 301-304.

FIG. 15 contains an overview of the Web resource 330 that includes data exchange with the data store 320, design module 331, information exchange module 332 and trading platform module 333.

The data store 320 includes a user accounts database 3201, a patterns database 3202 and a tailoring instructions and master classes database 3203.

Starting the work in the apparel design system 300, each user undergoes the procedure of registration on the Web resource 330. Access to the resource is performed using a standard Web browser installed on user devices. User devices mean both desktop computers of IBM-PC or Apple Macintosh type and mobile devices such as laptops, smartphones, tablets, phablets.

After users are registered in the system 300, information about their accounts is recorded in the database 3201. Then, users who have created patterns, store the same in the database 3202 for further use, e.g. printout of tailoring sheets or transfer of patterns to the trading platform module 333. Tailoring instructions and master classes generated by users are also stored in the respective database 3203.

The trading platform module 333 is a platform for users that provides a procedure for transmitting created patterns, tailoring instructions and workshops. The platform is based on a standard online store, where users can purchase the required goods using electronic payment means.

The trading platform module 333 allows users to download the necessary information from the user account, which they intend to implement. The trading platform module can optionally include an internal data store containing user-created patterns, tailoring instructions and video master classes.

The design module 331 uses special modules to implement garment construction steps, as provided in the method 100, and all other above-described processes. Hardware and software resource of the system 300 provide complete implementation of the method 100, and utilization of the above-mentioned modules to perform such functions as generation of tailoring instructions and interactive master classes, recalculation of cutout and pattern sizes, video recording of algorithm execution, calculation of the quantity of the materials required to manufacture a garment and/or garment piece, etc. 

1.-21. (canceled)
 22. A method for interactive design of garments, comprising the steps of: receiving a user request to create a garment; entering common body measurements, for which the garment is to be created; validating the entered common measurements by comparing entered values with a database of reference measurements; creating a 3D mannequin on the basis of the measurements; recalculating the measurements on the basis of the 3D mannequin model; evaluating specific features of a body shape on the basis of the 3D mannequin model; creating a garment cutout algorithm containing step-by-step construction of the garment with automatic execution of the same; involving graphical construction of the garment with determination of a position of the garment reference points depending on the measurements; creating the garment pattern on the basis of the position of the reference points; making marks, notches, reference lines and text comments at the patterns; recalculating the reference points and garment patterns to find intersections of garment elements and align lengths of mating seams and pieces of the garment; checking a fit of the garment to the mannequin; checking pattern construction for a range of height references; and exporting the patterns to a machine-readable format for one or more sizes.
 23. The method of claim 22, wherein the reference measurements are selected from a database containing a set of measurements distributed by age-gender groups.
 24. The method of claim 23, wherein an additional step is performed to check the entered common measurements by comparing the same with a specific age-gender group.
 25. The method of claim 22, wherein an additional 3D mannequin is constructed on the basis of a human photo image.
 26. The method of claim 25, wherein the main body measurements are calculated on the basis of the photo image.
 27. The method of claim 26, wherein each algorithm step is processed by a lexical interpreter that converts algorithm steps into text comments.
 28. The method of claim 27, wherein the comments are automatically translated into one or more languages.
 29. The method of claim 22, wherein a sequence of video frames is additionally generated, where each of the frames corresponds to the algorithm step.
 30. The method of claim 22, wherein a list of pieces is generated, which pieces are a part of the garment.
 31. The method of claim 30, wherein the list is generated following an automatic analysis of the garment cutout algorithm.
 32. The method of claim 22, wherein the quantity of the materials required to manufacture a garment and/or garment piece is calculated.
 33. The method of claim 22, wherein the patterns are marked with additional information.
 34. The method of claim 22, wherein when patterns are exported, they are cut to size.
 35. A system for interactive design of garments, comprising: at least one processor and at least one memory unit that stores processor-executable instructions, execution of which induces at least one processor to perform the following steps: receiving and processing a user request to create a garment; entering common body measurements, for which the garment is to be created; validating the entered common measurements by comparing entered values with a database of reference measurements; creating a 3D mannequin on the basis of the measurements; recalculating the measurements on the basis of the 3D mannequin model; evaluating specific features of a body shape on the basis of the 3D mannequin model; creating a garment cutout algorithm containing step-by-step construction of the garment with automatic execution of the same; involving graphical construction of the garment with determination of a position of garment reference points depending on the measurements; creating a garment pattern on the basis of the position of the reference points; making marks, notches, reference lines and text comments at the patterns; recalculating reference points and garment patterns to find intersections of garment elements and align lengths of mating seams and pieces of the garment; checking a fit of the garment to the mannequin; checking pattern construction for a range of height references; exporting the patterns to a machine-readable format for one or more sizes.
 36. The system of claim 35, further comprising an additional module for recalculating cutout sizes that recalculates pattern sizes.
 37. The system of claim 35, further comprising an additional trading platform module.
 38. The system of claim 35, further comprising an additional module for generating interactive garment tailoring instructions on the basis of a cutout algorithm.
 39. The system of claim 38, wherein the tailoring instruction is generated using a lexical interpreter converting algorithm steps into text comments.
 40. The system of claim 35, further comprising an additional module for video recording of algorithm execution.
 41. The system of claim 35, further comprising a module for calculating the quantity of the materials required to manufacture a garment and/or garment piece.
 42. The system of claim 38, further comprising a data store for the created patterns and generated interactive instructions. 